CK Big Change, Merger Or Future Trend

Recently, there has been another dramatic upheaval in the fashion industry (Hedi left YSL! Dior is still no designer! The men's clothing industry is in turmoil!) CalvinKlein announced that in order to promote the "global creative strategy", the men's clothing, creative director of women's wear, ItaloZucchelli and FranciscoCosta, who worked for them for more than ten years, will leave the company.

The two product lines of men's and women's clothing and other business categories of the company, including jeans, underwear, perfume and so on, will be merged into a "vision", and this vision will be made public at the right time.

The company declined to say when it would be "the right time". Although they said that the June men's wear series and the September women's wear design will be completed by the creative team within the company, they will not show up in the show.

CalvinKlein announced that its creative director ItaloZucchelli (left) and women's creative director FranciscoCosta will leave.

The photo was taken at a fundraising event in New York in 2011.

Picture copyright AmandaGordon/ Bloomberg

There was a rumor that Calvin was going to be reorganized at the end of last year, and there was a speculation that it was almost too soon to come true that Dior's former artistic director RafSimons would take over the post.

As expected, Simons did not respond to mail.

He is traveling. Anyway, his non competition clause with Dior is still valid until summer.

Whether he will get the job or not, this news makes it possible for CalvinKlein to reshape the fashion industry.

Ever since being sold by founder to PVH (Phillips-VanHeusen) group, the company has basically dropped out of fashion communication.

It is no exaggeration to say that if this fashion house looks for the right person (Simons is a good idea) and fully supports him, it will probably change the fashion industry in New York.

Someone really needs to do that.

After all, from the 80s of last century, the three major brands (CalvinKlein, RalphLaurenandDonnaKaran)

Suddenly appeared on the international stage, making sportswear popular all over the world.

Since then, American fashion has been almost in place.

As these brands mature, they gradually lose their influence on national aesthetics.

However, no matter whether they are Karan or simple repetition, no other brands can take their place.

The next generation of MarcJacobs, NarcisoRodriguez and MichaelKors are divided by European business.

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Later fashion brands (ProenzaSchouler, Rodarte, Altuzarra), though ventured in aesthetics, are not strong enough to exert international influence.

But with the sales of US $8 billion 200 million in 2015, CalvinKlein has the strength.

There is a view that clothes on the T stage are rarely seen second times.

The effect on the red carpet and the attractive T station also seem to be very different. Every time the award ceremony, Costa can grab several big shots.

She wore a dark green Sequin sling skirt at the Oscar prize presentation ceremony.

Indeed, the sales of men's wear series also account for less than 5% of the total business volume of the brand.

3 years ago, I made a video interview with the CEO TomMurry on behalf of the financial times. He told me before the camera that the men's clothing series was classified as "marketing expense" on the balance sheet.

In order to sell perfume better, you know.

However, so far it has not played such a role, mainly the PVH group has TommyHilfiger, Izod, Warner 's, Speedo and other brands. At present, it obviously pays more attention to the wide appeal and financial possibility of the feasible market terminals.

Although the design of Costa and Zucchelli has been widely praised, Costa has twice won the annual women's wear designer award from CFDA (CouncilofFashionDesignersofAmerica, the American Fashion Designers Association). Zucchelli won an annual men's wear designer award, but they were buried in the broader business of CalvinKlein.