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Jil Sander Leaving Milan Is Not "Brand Expulsion Designer".

2013/11/15 15:06:00 44

Jil SanderJil Sander2014 Spring Summer SeriesBrand FounderCreative DirectorMilan Fashion Week

< p style= "text-align: center" > < img border= "0" align= "center" alt= "" src= "" /uploadimages/201311/15/20131115031145_sj.JPG "/" < > > "


< p > < < a href= > http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_f.asp > > Fashion Brand > /a > Jil Sander released official news, said the brand founder and creative director Jil Sander left the brand for the third time.

A href= "http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_s.asp" > Milan < /a > headquarters attributed its resignation to personal reasons, rather than what people often think is "brand expulsion" a target= _blank href= "//www.sjfzxm.com/" > designer < /a >.

The last series left by Jil Sander is the 2014 spring summer series. The next 2014 autumn and winter series will be completed by the brand interior design team, temporarily replacing the designers who left.

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< p > > a href= "http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_f.asp" > Jil Sander < /a > left again.

Recently, the fashion brand Jil Sander released official news, saying that "a href=" http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_s.asp "brand founder" /a "and creative director Jil Sander left the brand for the third time.

Milan headquarters attributed its resignation to personal reasons, rather than the "brand expulsion designer" that people often think.

The last series left by Jil Sander is a href= "http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_f.asp" > 2014 spring summer series < /a >, and the next 2014 autumn winter series will be completed by the brand interior design team, temporarily replacing the designer who left.

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< p > industry analysis indicates that the departure of Jil Sander will largely determine the future direction of brand development.

At present, the Jil Sander brand is at a crossroads.

Retailers in Milan say: the Jil Sander 2013 autumn and winter market is selling well.

From the jacket to the trousers, this comprehensive and balanced series covers almost all product categories, the only one that falls is pricing, while materials and quality remain at a high level.

"Jil always asks for the best," one retailer said, "but Jil Sander's order management is very inflexible."

"Jil Sander is a very good fashion house, and the combination of brands and designers can be a very beautiful story," said Tancr e De De Lalun, director of the Paris spring department store for men and women.

Unfortunately, this relationship has not stabilized.

Frequent changes in investors and designers have made the brand suffer from setbacks.

Their strategic changes take almost two years to finally pass on to consumers.

The fashion industry needs a long-term foundation, so frequent turmoil will not bring any benefits to the brand's long-term stability and customer loyalty.

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Christopher Everard, founder of London P strategic headhunting company, a href= "http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_s.asp" > InterLife < /a, believes that Jil Sander's aesthetic concept is consistent. The reason for its destruction is more obvious than that of specialized skills and horizons.

Another insider who does not want to be named thinks that C e line and high street brand COS have misappropriated the aesthetics of Jil Sander without authorization, but they have done better in other aspects and lower in price.

He even said, "the brand of Jil Sander may be able to linger for several years, but if it can not find the right fresh blood, the situation will become worse sooner or later.

What if Jil Sander comes back again? "Many people in the industry believe that the former a href=" http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_f.asp ", the creative director /a /a Raf Simons has also made great contributions to brand development, but has not received the corresponding respect.

In the interview, someone said, "this shows the weak management ability of Jil Sander management."

Armando Branchini, vice president of Milan consulting company InterCorporate, has different opinions on the life of Jil Sander brand.

"It is worthwhile to invest in this brand for a long time. It has a very positive history."

He said, "Jil Sander is always a niche brand, clean and optimal quality, and investing in its creativity is definitely worth it."

Branchini believes that the brand now wants to get rid of the personal influence of Jil Sander.

"She didn't get the same results in the recent series," Branchini said. "She is different. She was once the inventor of a serious and low-key style, but now Jil Sander is no longer the only spokesperson for this style."

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< p > < strong > the collateral damage of high level change < /strong > /p >


Last year, the sales volume of the brand reached 110 million euros, up 6.7% from 2011.

The company's profit and loss is in a state of capital preservation.

At the same time, Jil Sander continues to expand its foothold in the world.

At the beginning of this year, it entered Beijing and Shanghai.

The main markets of Jil Sander include Germany, Australia and Switzerland.

Armando Mammina, a marketing and strategy consultant in Milan, said Ms. Sander "may find that her discomfort should be in a fast and globalized industry."

Mammina believes that the brand still reflects the characteristics of Raf Simons. The management wants to find a young and fresh designer, a rising designer, which can bring some new ideas to the brand.

He pointed out that Gabriele Colangelo is a strong competitor.

"Raf Simons has set up a new template, and Sander's regression has not further constructed it, and has developed its brand in a better direction.

This company needs someone who can help develop new markets and bring new atmosphere into the world.

German luxury electric business Mytheresa.

Com's buyer director Justin O Shea said she was not surprised by the news.

He said: "after Raf Simons left, the brand always gave people a feeling of not being easy.

There are endless rumors about how long Ms. Sander can stay. "

However, he also pointed out that, "a href=" http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_f.asp "> Jil Sander 2013 spring and summer series < /a > sales situation is very optimistic, autumn and winter looks OK too.

These two series are more like the classic Jil Sander, focusing on the basic elements of luxury, and the difference between the customer group and Raf Simons is at the helm.

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< p > referring to the future development of the brand, he said, "well, this is a big problem.

It is hard to have a core successor without collateral damage.

I love Jil Sander, and I hope they will be very cautious and smart to choose their successors and find someone who can create new life for this great brand.

CEO Mario Eimuth of Stylebop.com, a Munich electricity supplier, said: "I am very sorry for the withdrawal of Jil Sander, especially when I saw such an elderly woman leading the team so enthusiastically.

She is full of energy. I think there must be a very serious personal reason for leaving behind.

The sale of this series is very good.

I am one hundred percent sure that their breakup is not due to economic problems, nor to the disharmony between management and creativity.

Mario pointed out: "she has developed a very good team, but the brand side still claims that the team take over is an expedient measure.

This means that management is really shocked by her decision to leave. "

Last year, Jil Sander returned to the brand that she founded in Hamburg, Germany in 1968.

With extraordinary cutting techniques and luxury fabric, designers gained great prestige in 1980 and 1990s.

In 1999, she sold 75% of the shares to Prada group and left in a year, until May 2003.

In July 2005, when she left for the second time, Prada discovered Raf Simons.

The latter turned the brand's skirt into the most sought after product, making the brand show become the most anticipated period of "a href=" http://:http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_c.asp "Milan Fashion Week" /a.

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During the term of Raf Simons, Jil Sander was sold to Japan's "a href=" http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_s.asp "Onward Holdings" /a group at the price of 167 million euros in the term of P.

As we all know, Jil Sander is a designer who works all the time, leaving the studio very late every day.

On the other hand, her self willed self is also respected. The most famous is tit for tat with Prada's CEO Patrizio Bertelli.

In February 2012, in the face of Jil Sander's return, retailers and editorial groups applauded. Of course, it was also inevitable that the Raf Simons's contribution to the brand could not be avoided.

At that time, the management of the company hoped that the return of Jil Sander would drive the sales level up, just as she did before her return.

WWD describes Jil Sander's 2013 spring and summer women's wear series as a "commendable return".

And her 2013 autumn winter series shows the perfect combination of "thrilling" and "peaceful and quiet".

But looking forward to the 2014 spring and summer, WWD said, "many beautiful parts no longer exist in a clear and powerful presentation, which is a common feature of all her series."

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