Clothing Brand Intervention: China'S "Small Hand" Has Become An "Old Hand".
Miao embroidery
The weaving process of handicraftsmen.
Ne Tiger Luan Feng twin peony silk
fine clothes
。
Compared with the European handicraft workshop, China's "small hands" are even more worrying.
In the absence of workshops of scale, without fixed orders, and with factories everywhere requiring labor, most of China's "small hands" have left their senior "veterans", who are living at low prices and are faced with the danger of being left behind.
In the 9th Anniversary Edition, Chinese version of "Jia Ren" magazine also attempted to make Miao embroidery and dress matching skills, and launched the Miao embroidery fund, which refreshed people's impression of Miao embroidery.
When China has been replaced by the cheaper manufacturing of Thailand and India, it is more urgent to save China's "small hands" and develop China's design.
There is hope for brands to intervene in the handicraft industry.
Reporter: many national handicrafts are missing. Why do you choose Miao embroidery?
Deng Li: when I saw Miao embroidery, I felt very shocked. Although I have seen a lot of European advanced custom workshops and visited many famous handicraft shops abroad, I admire CHANEL for buying 8 advanced handicraft shops. At the same time, looking back at Miao embroidery, I think it is even more elaborate than the big hand workshop. If you look at it and disappear, it's too bad.
Reporter: many people regard these handicrafts as "crafts" and "tourist souvenirs".
fashion
Together, what do you think?
Deng Li: at present, advanced customization in the world is selling fashion design first, followed by selling technology, and so on.
As far as Chinese traditional handicraft is concerned, the core of the technology is no problem. Now the improvement is in design, so we hope to join the fashion brand and designer's power and make them more fashionable, so that more people will be accepted.
Reporter: specifically, how did you help Miao embroidery?
Deng Li: after the money comes into the fund, we will divide into 4 phases each year, each period has 3 months training class, provides the raw material and has the working time expense subsidy, asks some famous master in the stockade to teach young women.
Every quarter, experts will evaluate and appraise their works. Excellent embroidered mothers can be promoted, and prize winners should be awarded.
Through training, embroidery skills to advanced women, will have the opportunity to complete the embroidery business orders from the city.
All in order to motivate them to study harder and have better skills, so that they can get real benefits from the beautiful embroidery made by themselves. I feel that if one day, women do not have to go to Shenzhen's processing factories as cheap labor to raise their own offspring, Miao embroidery will have the hope of passing on the times.
Another part of this project is in the three stockade of the project. We plan to make the old mother with better workmanship in the stockade work together to copy an old clothes every year.
They will have more objective income and apprenticeship.
We will auction the replica clothes, and the money will be put into the fund to make the plan run smoothly.
Then gather the strength of the fashion circle to let Miao embroidery have a larger market.
"Giving a fish to a man is better than giving him a fish." if a thing is always protected, it has no vitality.
Now we have contacted some brands and began to introduce orders for embroidered girls. It is estimated that starting from spring this year, there will be brands that will use Miao embroidery in the design of the next season besides capital injection funds.
I hope that two or three years later, the embroidered girls can pick up their orders themselves.
Reporter: apart from Miao embroidery, what are your good suggestions for saving other handicraft industries?
Deng Li: I think first of all, we should have good design, design brand intervention, like foreign handicraft workshop, although the traditional manual is used, but the expression is modern.
If you only sell handicrafts, you can't! You can't ask consumers to consume with a public interest and charity heart, so you can only spend one or two times, not for a long time.
The power of the media is to awaken the consciousness of all kinds of people, and let the designer realize that these handcrafts can be added to the design so that others can realize the value of these handcrafts, so that they will be willing to appreciate and buy them, so that these handcrafts can be truly preserved.
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Miao embroidery theme.
An awesome old embroidery artist.
More artisans need to be excavated.
Zhang Zhifeng (Chairman and chief designer of NE TIGER)
Reporter: what kind of cooperative relationship do you have with embroidery and embroidery?
Zhang Zhifeng: our partnership is relatively simple. First of all, there is a standard in the local area, the daily remuneration is about how much.
Now many embroidered girls do crafts, and do the same thing every day.
We will pick out some of the better ones, not only to be embroidered better, but also to be creative. Embroidery is also in the design, looking for these creative embroidery talents, giving them 2-3 times the remuneration of handicrafts, so that they can guarantee the time to hand in their work outside the household chores.
They all let us be satisfied, and the reward is fast.
Reporter: what is the traditional handicraft in the clothing industry now?
Zhang Zhifeng: traditional handicraft is a kind of inheritance skill. Although it has never been broken, the prospect is not optimistic.
Industrial civilization has gradually replaced handicrafts. For example, 10 years ago, there were about 100 thousand embroidered mothers in Jiangsu. Last year, we found that less than twenty thousand people, the survival of twenty thousand people is not so ideal, because industrial civilization slowly replaced them. This is a general trend.
Embroidered a peony flower, embroidered mother embroidered for about 2-3 hours, the cost is about 200 yuan, but machine embroidered 10 minutes can embroider 10 thousand, the cost is still low, a few cents can.
From the perspective of Chinese handicrafts, embroidery has replaced cloud brocade, and Yun brocade has replaced silk. The speed is faster than one, but the prospect is not optimistic.
Reporter: for those who are on the verge of extinction, have you ever thought about how to save?
Zhang Zhifeng: first of all, they accept their works. Many of them do not accept apprentices. Many clothes can not be copied. They embroider their own memories, and each is a work of art.
At the same time, we must continue to dig artisans, if people see that doing manual work can have a good income, it will also allow technology to be passed down.
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