The Continuous Evolution Of Autumn Pants Is The Epitome Of The Clothing Industry Embracing Technology

There is a kind of waiting called looking through the autumn water, and there is a kind of cold called forgetting to wear autumn trousers.

Autumn clothes and trousers, which are for the purpose of keeping warm, are bulky and do not decorate the body. They were once "rejected" by many young people.

However, with the brand design more and more beautiful and comfortable, now the autumn pants seem to have become a kind of fashion items, and more and more young people are willing to wear them. There are many netizens on the micro blog joking: "my life is given by the autumn trousers", "when the trousers are used, they hate less"

With the beginning of winter approaching, double 11 is the hot selling node of autumn trousers every year. On the evening of October 24, Li Jiaqi's live studio opened double 11 pre-sale. The pre-sale quantity of 302 + + warm-keeping suits with 174 yuan / set of banana inner hot skin exceeded 400000 sets, which can be seen from the popularity.

Affected by the energy crisis, foreigners are also scrambling for pants this year. According to the data provided by cross-border platform express, since October, the sales of thermal underwear have increased by nearly 2.5 times on a month on month basis, and the growth rate of autumn clothing and autumn trousers is even greater, with the growth rate of more than 300% in France, Germany, Poland and other countries.

In the past, how did the autumn trousers, which everyone disliked, succeed in counterattack?

The past and present of autumn trousers

Autumn clothes and trousers, as the name implies, refers to clothes that are worn close to the body in autumn and winter and are used to keep warm and prevent cold. In some parts of our country, autumn trousers are also known as cotton wool trousers, underwear, trousers, etc.

The predecessor of autumn trousers can be traced back to the popular breeches in Europe in the middle ages. According to public information, in the 15th century, Henry VIII, the second king of the Tudor Dynasty, liked to wear a kind of men's Breeches in the court, which were made of tight leggings and wool. This is considered to be the ancestor of autumn trousers.

In Europe and North America in the 18th century, it has become a folk trend to use autumn pants as pajamas. However, in order to keep warm and cold, the autumn pants at that time were all conjoined, covering all the upper and lower parts of the human body, and tightening the hands, feet, wrists and mouth, which can be understood as conjoined underwear. This one-piece underwear was popular until the first World War.

It wasn't until 1915, when a Canadian named Frank Steinfeld cut open his one-piece pajamas with a pair of scissors, he had the modern style of autumn clothes and trousers -- adjustable two-piece underwear. On December 7 of this year, Frank Steinfeld applied for a patent, became the father of modern commercial trousers, and began to produce them on a large scale.

When the two-piece autumn clothes and trousers were first introduced, the sales volume was flat, because for the manual workers who live outdoors for a long time, the one-piece clothes have better thermal insulation. Until the Second World War, the economic development accelerated, and the number of brainworkers increased. They lived indoors and preferred to wear more convenient modern trousers.

Therefore, in the 1950s, autumn pants gradually became popular, and sales increased year by year. It was also during this period that autumn trousers were introduced into China.

As for how the autumn trousers spread to China, a popular saying among the people is the "autumn pants conspiracy" of the Soviet Union.

At that time, the geneticist of the Soviet Union, Li Senke, proposed to Stalin that China should introduce autumn trousers. His explanation is that if a country has been wearing autumn trousers for 60 years, it will develop a habit, its genes will change in essence, its legs and joints will lose their cold resistance, and eventually the Chinese will lose the ability to fight and survive in the Far East of the Soviet Union. As a result, autumn trousers became a friendly exchange between China and the Soviet Union and was introduced into China.

Obviously, the Chinese people did not lose the ability to resist the cold, but also succeeded in carrying forward the business of autumn trousers.

In the 1990s, cotton thermal underwear became the mainstream of the whole Asian market at that time. Several domestic traditional thermal underwear brands appeared in this period, for example, Yu Zhaolin was founded in 1996, Antarctica was founded in 1997, and Arctic velvet was established in 1998. However, although 100% cotton has good skin affinity, it is thick and airtight, and has poor elasticity.

Entering the 21st century, hot underwear, which can be called "black technology" in underwear industry, has been launched by UNIQLO, cat man, red bean and other brands. According to reports, self heating underwear can keep 37 ℃ constant temperature, the heating principle is usually wet heating, far-infrared heating, electric heating. This kind of underwear is light and thin, meeting the needs of many people who are thin and warm.

In recent years, the new underwear brand represented by jiaonei has put forward a new concept hot skin, which uses a technology called warm yarn to heat and warm fiber, which can release heat by absorbing water molecules to achieve the effect of temperature rise. Because the heat is also close to the body at the same time, it is called hot skin.

In fact, whether it is hot underwear or hot skin, the so-called "black technology" is derived from the heating fiber. The traditional thermal underwear mainly prevents the heat escaping from the body, while the heating fiber is a new material which can generate heat by absorbing the moisture generated by human skin.

The trousers rolled up, too

"To put on autumn trousers is the least respect for winter", "for us Chinese, suits are the face, and trousers are the lining", "we are old enough to wear them without being reminded by our mother"

"Black technology" makes more and more young people fall in love with autumn pants, and also gives birth to a number of new brands that take into account both warmth and beauty.

According to the public data, in 2020, new consumer brands, such as ubras and jiaonei, which emphasize the attribute of science and technology, will enter the top 3 of the list of tmall double 11 underwear, replacing the old players of Antarctica and Hengyuanxiang in the list.

The "black technology" of underwear launched by jiaonei includes zero touch non sense support technology, bodyknit seamless body feeling knitting, heatskin hot skin heating fiber, movestech / mobile technology sports liner, siverskin silver skin antibacterial technology, liquid pull liquid lifting technology, clo + air velvet, etc.

Ubras's "black tech" product is muscle bottoms. According to reports, the first generation of ubras muscle bottom is made of amino acid fabric, which can absorb water molecules and form a water locking layer on the skin; The new generation of muscle bottoms launched this year uses phase change constant temperature fabric, which can keep the body surface temperature within a certain range through morphological changes.

There is also the UNIQLO HEATTECH Series in the field of thermal underwear, which has been enduring since its birth in 2003.

The so-called HEATTECH technology uses high-tech ultra-fine fibers to make the fabric absorb the water vapor emitted by the human body after contacting with the body, and convert the kinetic energy of water molecules discharged from the human body into heat energy, so as to improve the somatosensory temperature. As the temperature rises, the water vapor discharged is easier to evaporate.

The new forces are coming fiercely, and the old Chinese products are not willing to be outdone.

In recent years, cat man and red bean have also begun to take the "black technology" route. Cat man's light burning clothes are favored by the Chinese polar scientific research team because they use 50 yarn ultra dense fabrics and incorporate minhealth technology; The new generation of red bean velvet underwear uses Mitsubishi Chemical Bellmer ™ Fiber and 9 layers of soft velvet technology can keep warm and improve softness at the same time.

Why are brands keen to define products with a sense of technology?

On the one hand, it is related to consumer demand. Since 2020, the world has experienced the impact of the epidemic, and consumers pay more attention to healthy and functional clothing products than ever before.

On the other hand, with the penetration of high-tech into all walks of life, in order to break the increasingly depressed fashion circle, technology has become a new weapon for the big men at the top of the fashion pyramid. The innovation and R & D of high-tech fabrics has become the latest popular trend in the world.

When technology meets fashion

In addition to thermal underwear, a variety of "black technology" is also used in all aspects of the clothing field.

Like down jacket.

Bosden has launched the peak 2.0 down jacket series in 2021, which integrates many "black technologies", such as Beidou Positioning System, PCM of the same temperature regulating material of Mars probe zhurong, aerogel of Long March 5 space temperature control material, which is said to be able to resist the low temperature of Mount Everest at minus 35 ℃.

Anta has launched a-flame hot technology down jacket series, the yarn of graphene nano material is woven into the fabric. By reflecting more than 88% of the 3-15 micron wavelength far-infrared, it resonates with proteins and water molecules in human cells, which can instantly activate the function of biomolecules and rapidly raise the body surface temperature. This resonance can also promote blood circulation and enhance metabolism.

Another example is the sportswear.

At the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympic Games, Anta's competition clothes for Gu ailing are made with protection technology and Gore-Tex fabric, which is known as the "cloth of the century". It has the functions of water-proof, air permeability and wind resistance, breaking through the airtight defects of ordinary waterproof ski suits.

The lululemon down jacket worn by the Italian team won with the black technology of intelligent insulation: the clothes will automatically react according to the temperature, and the fabric will automatically expand when it is cold, forming a hollow structure to isolate the cold air; When hot, the fabric shrinks, reducing the amount of insulation.

The karbon ski suit worn by the Australian team also has a built-in USB heating system for better cold protection and warmth retention.

Aerogel, graphene, Gore-Tex and other new fabrics are widely used in clothing innovation by major brands.

Gore-Tex fabric, which is commonly used in outdoor clothing, is actually a kind of porous membrane, with 1.4 billion micropores per square centimeter. These pores are 20000 times smaller than water drops, but 700 times larger than steam. Therefore, rainwater is not allowed to enter, but sweat is easily removed. This kind of fabric belongs to the American Gore company with a history of more than 60 years. At present, it has been used in aerospace, military, medical, clothing and other fields.

Aerogel is a new type of nano material with low thermal conductivity, which is commonly used in fireproof clothing, aerospace suit and cold proof clothing, also known as "solidified blue smoke". Under the same thermal insulation performance, the thickness of thermal insulation material is only 1 / 3 to 1 / 5 of that of traditional thermal insulation material, and it has fire resistance and hydrophobicity; Under the same thermal effect, the thickness is only 1 / 5 of that of ordinary down jacket.

Graphene fabric is a certain proportion of graphene fiber in the textile fiber, with low temperature far infrared, moisture absorption and ventilation, antibacterial, anti-static, anti electromagnetic, anti ultraviolet, self heating and other multi-functional characteristics. For example, graphene fabric is to use strong redox capacity to destroy microbial structure, inactivate microorganisms, and decompose ammonia and other gases and odors.

With the deepening of the exploration of technological fabrics, the clothing industry is entering a new dimension of future wear experience.

More experimental "black technology" clothing is expected: some clothes can become more breathable according to the increase of body temperature and humidity; Some clothes can use electric current to stimulate acupoints to help lose weight; Others can detect heart rate, respiration and ambient oxygen content at any time to reflect health status in real time

Write it at the end

The continuous evolution of autumn pants is the epitome of the clothing industry embracing technology.

Whether it's the heating fiber commonly used in self heating underwear, Gore-Tex, which is favored by outdoor brands, or graphene and aerogel, which are used in down jacket, these fabric innovations actually come from the innovation and breakthrough of supply chain enterprises, which are the technological changes caused by the continuous upgrading of consumer demand.

Some people in the industry believe that the logic different from fast fashion is to start with design and drive the development of the industry from the fashion trend. The bottom layer of fabric technology is to realize product functionality through many years of technological innovation, so as to continuously improve the wearing comfort experience and drive the changes of the consumer market in this way.

Functional clothing with innovative fabrics, or a great opportunity for the next clothing market.