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The Transformation Of Clothing Value From Conservative Simplicity To Open Pluralism

2012/7/14 15:15:00 26

Fashion DesignSkirtTang Costume

From material to Aesthetics: value transformation of clothing


In the early days of the founding of new China, even before the reform and opening up, no matter the streets or alleys of cities or villages, the impression that people wore to people was monotonous black, white and gray. Today, not only young people, but even seventy or eighty year old people wearing colorful clothes are no longer strange.


At the foot of the hero mountain in Ji'nan, the reporter met several elderly people who are enjoying the cool. Although these seventy or eighty old people are wearing bright blue, purple, black and white floral shirts and dark blue skirts. "When we were young, we had no skirts at all. We made clothes made of old coarse cloth that we made, and clothes made of coarse cloth in summer were not cool at all." An old man who had done tree protection work at the Ji'nan Bureau of parks and Woods said that at that time, he used spinning and weaving to make clothes. He also rubbed hemp rope with his hands and made his sole. Cloth shoes 。 "What style of clothes is there? Pull two buttons on the cloth and put them on the body."


Hou Yingtang, who lives in Ji'nan Shun Yu District, is 64 years old. She said, before eighteen, nine years old, she always wore coarse cloth, "she weaves cloth and bubbles in the water, and puts on the stain of Indigo powder, light blue coat, deep blue trousers, and wears it all the year round." It was not until the age of 18 that a barefoot doctor began to have a blue printed trousers and a pink coat. The baby was very much and could not bear to wear it at all.


In the 60s of last century, China was greatly influenced by the Soviet Union from dress, hairstyle to life style. "At that time, some fashionable women began to wear pleated skirts, but very few. Most men wear tunic suits. At that time, everyone had a good time to eat, and few people wanted to wear nice clothes. The retired man of Ji'nan Bureau of parks and Woods said.


In the early days of reform and opening up, clothing design entered into people's life. Clothing was transformed from tailor's one-piece production or small workshop processing to factory garment and batch production, and fabrics were converted from coarse cotton to chemical fiber, but the style was relatively monotonous.


Lv Xuehai, a professor at Shandong College of Arts and Crafts, said that in the early 80s of last century, clothing education was brought into higher education in China. Some artists began to get involved in fashion design education, and they fully penetrated into the colors, shapes and styles of clothing. With the diversified pursuit of clothing, clothing is not only artistic, but also gradually with technological content. Subsequently, manufacturers applied the new technology to clothing production, combining art and science, and people also gave clothing more emotional appeals. Nowadays, clothing has risen from simple objects with value to people's pursuit of aesthetic symbols, and the rhythm of popularity is faster and faster.


From conservative simplicity to open pluralism


Since the reform and opening up, clothing has undergone rapid changes. The style has changed from monotonous to pluralistic, and its color has been monotonous.


Lv Xuehai said that before the "Cultural Revolution", material was scarce, and clothing only played its most natural role, and only had material value. The restriction of social environment, lack of innovation in technology and low level of material determine the monotonous unity of people's dress. "Whether it's a Chinese tunic suit, a military uniform or a tooling, people have to wear it and not dare to make innovations."


"More and more personalities, more and more diverse, more and more beautiful", which has become a vivid and powerful portrait of clothing in the past 30 years of reform and opening up. It is understood that before the founding of new China until the reform and opening up, conservative ideas have been affecting the masses of people wearing. "In the new three years, in the old three years, sewing for three years", under the influence of such a concept, some people are uncomfortable when they wear new clothes, and even need to wash their old clothes and wear them again, or patched several patches on clothes that have not been damaged.


"Before the 70s of the last century, people were very strict and conservative. Women who are fond of beauty can only make some articles at the collar, or turn out the collar of their shirt, or do some "pleats" to make a difference. Girls now wear Suspenders Some of them even wear underwear. Walking on the streets of the city, looking at it, all kinds of colors show the flying personality and vitality.


Lv Xuehai said that the so-called "beauty" is comfortable, appropriate and concise, and now people's ideas have been completely subverted, with visual impact, fashion and beauty. Because of the collision between Chinese culture and Western culture, the fashionable clothing is almost a combination of "weird" and "beautiful" in a way. Nowadays, clothing is not only a product, but also a cultural product. The diversification of fashion reflects people's pursuit of fashion and innovation.


Traditional and national: "circular rise"


In the Middle District of Ji'nan, Xiao Lu bought a cheongsam for 197 yuan in Quancheng Road, and the pink base was printed with red flowers with green leaves. The owner of a cheongsam stall in the new world mall told reporters that the cheongsam is very popular now. There are many girls to buy it, wear it at home and wear it to work.


Nowadays, some more than 50 year old people still love Chinese tunic suits, and some old people like to wear Tang suits. Despite the changes in the times, people's clothing has undergone great changes, but some symbols representing the Chinese nation have been passed down with indomitable vitality.


Looking back at the 2008 Olympic Games in Beijing, the ceremonial dress is a combination of Chinese style cheongsam and Western style dress, which is very eye-catching during the whole Olympic Games. Nowadays, the girl in Qipao is still a never fading landscape in the city. The dress of the hostesses and ceremonial ladies of some important events even has the trend of uniform cheongsam.


Our traditional Tang costume is also loved by the people. Not only will the elderly and children wear the streets and lanes on New Year's day, but at the ninth APEC informal leadership meeting in 2001, China, as a host country, presented the Tang costume to the leaders of the participating countries.


Lv Xuehai said: "Tang suit can reflect Chinese culture and national characteristics. This is also a manifestation of our national self-confidence."


About Chinese traditional Dress cheongsam As for the Tang costume, the Chinese tunic suit and the changes in the costumes of the ethnic minorities, Lv Xuehai said that, in general, these traditional costumes still show a trend of "rising in circulation". At present, higher education classroom is discussing how to extract these traditional elements and combine modern technology and techniques into modern fashion design.

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