The Secret Pain Of Garment Manufacturers In Post Quota Era
A Levi 1; s jeans sell 15 to 30 US dollars in discount stores in the United States, and 100 to 200 yuan, according to the exchange rate. But when the same pair of trousers is exported to domestic sales, they will have to sell at least 700 yuan, or even thousands of yuan, in the domestic stores.
Reporters interviewed several consumers on the street randomly. They could quickly answer jeans brands abroad, such as Levi 1, s, LEE and CALVIN. In fact, most of these jeans are processed by Chinese enterprises. A general manager of a foreign trade clothing company is saying, "what we spend a lot of money on is actually a brand."
In the interview, the above person in charge admitted that "the quality of our products has not lost to foreign brands, because the enterprises themselves also do some OEM for some brands." The gap is in design. Now the European Union and the United States are becoming more and more stringent about the standards of imported garments, and our enterprises are also growing in adaptation.
Faced with the increasingly difficult reality of export and the temptation of greater domestic profits, why do foreign trade enterprises not take the road of domestic sales? With these questions, reporters visited some foreign trade enterprises. Through interviews, it is found that although it is more and more difficult, enterprises are still working hard. For example, a small pair of jeans, from China's factories across the sea, without a lot of refining, this step really can not go out.
Trade barrier
The secret pain of garment manufacturers in Post Quota Era
The quotas that govern the global textile trade for over 40 years have come to an end 5 years ago. In a restricted post quota era, enterprises face greater risks than quota age. " With the frequent launching of textile barriers in Europe and the United States, many textile and garment enterprises have such feelings. The end of the quota system does not mean the advent of free trade.
"In recent years, as China's textile and clothing exports have increased substantially, the trade barriers set by the European Union and other countries are also getting higher and higher." As the leader of the leading enterprises in Hangzhou clothing export, the director of the director of Hangzhou, the director of the grain, oil, food, soil and livestock production and Export Co., Ltd., was deeply impressed. "The jeans we produce are mainly exported to the European and American markets, especially the European Union." But there are too many regulations and changes. In addition, many of the clothes we produce are children's clothing, which is more stringent in foreign countries.
Chen Yan, director of the textile inspection department of Hangzhou entry exit inspection and Quarantine Bureau, said that in recent years, with the increasing safety requirements for children's clothing in Europe and the United States, some children's clothing in China has been frequently recalled in the European and American markets. "The main reason is that physical safety and chemical safety are not qualified. Most of these are due to small parts and rope does not meet, there are easy to cause suffocation and other problems and hidden dangers of children.
For example, a recent European Union regulation stipulates that children's clothing is not allowed to have 5.5 millimeters to 12 millimeters of opening, because if children accidentally insert their fingers into the opening, they can easily be squeezed and not easily pulled out, which may prevent finger tip blood circulation and lead to necrosis of the fingers.
An antidote against the disease
Every piece of cloth should be strictly numbered.
"After 80" Ding Fei, formerly the head office of the head office, was transferred to the Marriott garment factory as director of the factory. At present, Ding has been two years' director of the factory to understand every process of the garment. "When I first arrived in the factory, I worked with the workers every day, and often did not work until 12 in the night."
The young director of English learning is also familiar with the laws of the exporting country.
"In the European Union and other countries and regions" stringent standards ", a pair of jeans from raw materials to the finished factory export, this step in every step we have to be careful and careful, where a little problem, the consequences are unthinkable. In the workshop of the Marriott garment factory, Ding Fei flew around the busy workers.
Ding Diaofei said, "after the guest orders, the first thing to do is the purchase of fabric and accessories, and the fabric and accessories must be confirmed before purchasing. Accessories such as rivets, zippers and threads of jeans will be marked on an excipient card, and guests will be strictly recognized according to the accessories card. To ensure that all the jeans produced are up to foreign standards, the factory has purchased various inspection equipment and equipped with specialized laboratories for testing and testing raw materials.
After processing, the processing and production processes are more stringent. "Since jeans are usually washed, the shrinkage test is necessary after the fabric is delivered. Then, according to the different shrinkage rate, we will divide the fabric into batches and use different cutting patterns. Then cut and numbered.
Why do we need to subcontract numbers? Ding Diaofei explained: "jeans have chromatic aberrations. If they are not subcontracted, the sides of the jeans will be able to use fabrics of different shades, and those products are not qualified. Therefore, even a small piece must be strictly numbered. {page_break}
Advance gradually and entrench oneself at every step
The button lock machine is tested every two hours.
Making jeans, locking nails is an important step. Ding Diaofei said that several standards in the European Union have provisions for buttons. "Jeans, rivets and so on on jeans are stapled to jeans. This process looks simple and can be very strict. The locking machine used for locking nails is checked every two hours to see if the mold is loose, so as to ensure that the machine can work accurately.
Ding Diaofei introduced that European and American countries have a very high demand for buttons on children's clothing, so it is necessary to carry out tensile tests to ensure that buttons can not be loosened or dropped for 10 seconds in 70 Newton pull. "In order to meet the standards, the general factories use 90 Newton force to carry out tests to ensure that they meet the standards."
Another important step is "checking needles". Ding Diaofei said, the needle is to ensure that the sewing machine breaks off needles not left on the jeans. The needle checking machine also needs to be tested every two hours to ensure the sensitivity of the machine. In the process of sewing, if a needle breaks, it is necessary to find the broken needle immediately. If the product is within the radius of 1.5 meters, the needle must be checked. If the needle is still not found, the goods will be disposed of.
After completing the above steps, the goods can be packed and waiting for customers to check the goods. Many guests will also invite third party inspection organizations to conduct inspection, while the inspection and quarantine department will conduct counselling and testing in the production process of jeans. After these layers of testing, jeans can be exported to foreign markets.
Chaos in domestic sales
The entrance fee is hundreds of thousands or even hundreds of thousands.
"Making foreign trade exports, mastering channels will make money, but earning too little is simply a hard work." Although knowing that foreign trade profits are limited, Xu Honglu, deputy general manager of Hangzhou Marriott garment manufacturing Co., said frankly, "it is not easy to get involved in the domestic market".
Market turmoil is one of the reasons why Xu Honglu and other entrepreneurs are deterred. "The domestic market is too chaotic: the competition among enterprises still stays on the price. Low price competition leads to the quality can not be guaranteed, and ultimately be abandoned by the market; and the manufacturer promotes sales at a low price in order to increase sales volume, thus forming a vicious circle."
For many enterprises that originally made foreign trade, it is an important problem to transfer to the domestic market. The boss of a low voltage electrical appliance manufacturer in Hangzhou told reporters that they had tried to contact some stores and supermarkets in the country. However, hundreds of thousands of entrance fees were blocked. "Many factories prefer to make small profits export orders, and they dare not take up the domestic trade list with a higher profit margin."
Despite their difficulties, they took the first step. According to Xu Honglu, the company tried to rent a booth at the wholesale clothing market in Sijiqing. In addition, several young people have opened a shop on Taobao to sell some jeans. He said, "first explore the road, after all, the domestic market is very large, we also want to slowly turn around when appropriate."
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